Basic Parts List

[Nev Bertwistle]

I’ve assembled a basic list of the parts you’ll need for the AWD conversion of a Focus XR5/ST225. Further details are in the separate sections.

1. Cars suitable for donor parts - Volvo S40 & V50 T5 AWD from 2004-2010 preferably manual but rare as and the later Ford TE Kuga 2012 (auto only). You’ll need to mix the parts between models to get all the parts you'll need.

2. Gearbox – M66C which has the extra bolt pattern on the bellhousing to cater for the transfer case. In Oz only found in S40/V50/S60R and the MK2 RS. See Gearbox for detailed info on the variants. Make sure you get the Volvo manual drive collar as the one in the auto Kuga & Volvo’s will not fit.

3. Transfer case – use either Volvo S40/V50 or Kuga TE (preferable). Note that you should not mix a Volvo transfer case with a Kuga diff, or visa versa. Keep them matched as there are very minor differences in the internal ratios between years in the Volvo models.

4. Driveshafts – LHS can use any XR5/Volvo T5 they are all the same. RHS you MUST use a manual AWD driveshaft from the Volvo. Kuga do not fit nor does a Volvo auto driveshaft as its 15mm too short where it goes into the box. You cannot use XR5 shafts as the AWD shaft is turned down to go through the centre of the transfer case.

5. Propshaft – use the Volvo or Kuga one including all the mounting brackets. All the holes are there in the chassis rails although some of the blind nuts are not. You can either weld them on or use nut inserts.

6. Rear Diff – preferably use complete Kuga diff and Haldex as Gen IV in Kuga has different oil pump arrangement. You can change the Haldex nose on a Volvo diff to go from Gen III to Gen IV but as most Kuga diffs have lower km so stick with that. For rear driveshafts you will have to use Volvo S40/V50 as Kuga are longer and do not fit the track of an XR5.

7. Rear crossmember – Volvo S40/V50 as its a direct bolt in. Do not use the Kuga as while it fits it mounts 20mm further rearward and puts extra ride height in that you then must take out with different spring selection. Keep the Volvo knuckles (one piece like an XR5) and just hook up the brake lines etc like normal. For shocks you can either use genuine Volvo or KW and now BC Racing do a coilover for the AWD Volvo’s. You can’t use the XR5 ones as they are a different length.

8. Front crossmember – use the Volvo S40/V50 or a MK2 RS/TE Kuga uses the same. It mounts the crossmember approx. 20mm lower to give clearance for the transfer case to the steering rack. Don’t be tempted to use an XR5 crossmember and raise the engine mounts to get clearance as that process affects handling negatively. Makes sure you get the 4 mounting bolts as they are longer than standard ones.

9. Exhaust – need AWD system from Kuga or Volvo. Your XR5/RS one won’t fit anymore. Downpipe is different to curve around transfer case, centre section runs down the centre propshaft tunnel and curves up around fuel tank and over rear crossmember. You can get aftermarket AWD systems from Europe/US or could possibly look at full custom.

10. Fuel tank – use the Kuga one although there’s no reason you couldn’t run the Volvo one. Use the AWD mounting straps and all the extra blind nuts are already in the body to mount it. AWD tank has two saddles with two pickups and runs its own unique internal fuel pump. You CANNOT swap this pump out for another of higher capacity however the pump is already better than an XR5 and is good for nearly 500hp.

11. Fuel system Wiring
Fuel Pump – both Kuga and Volvo run a Fuel Pump Control Module which is effectively a rising rate fuel pressure controller. It takes a PWM feed from PIN 21 of the PCM and uses that to control the pump speed and pressure. Without it you will get a high fuel rail pressure DTC. You’ll need to rewire the section to the tank as its different to an XR5. You can only use the Kuga FPCM as it needs to be Ford to match the Ford wiring/system.
Fuel Gauge – the AWD tank uses two sender units which send their separate signals up to the Kuga instrument cluster where software combines the two to give you the gauge reading. An XR5 cluster cannot do this so your gauge will read full forever then empty very very quickly.

12. Haldex wiring – the Haldex module itself only has 5 wires. There’s 2x grounds, a power and the HS CAN network (+ve/-ve). The power should be run from the GEM through a 10A fuse so you’ll need to work that one out. For the HS CAN you need to splice into the HS network, of which there are HS CAN wires running down each side of the floor harness. It really doesn’t matter where as long as you make sure it’s the HS network (and get the +ve/-ve bits right). Regardless of which Haldex/Diff you use to work in a Ford you must use the Ford Haldex module so they talk the same language.

There’s more to it but the list above will get you started. Please see the other sections for more detailed explanation on each bit.